I missed a lot of the sanding (oh no…).  Marc rounded out the edges, and sanded down the entire board with up to 220-grit paper.  Also went ahead and installed the fin box he ordered.  We’ve decided to not use the fins supplied by CLC.  Neither of us feel they are quite long enough for great tracking.

The benefits of installing your own fin box really outweigh the difficulty of the install.  You can change out the fins length depending on the water depth, or if there are a lot of weeds, if you decide to race or turf the board.  You can even make your own fins.

To install the fin box we had to find the center, make sure everything was level.  Cut a rectangle out, cut a piece of foam out as well to nestle it into.  We then made sure it fit.  Then the board broke, so we had to repair that.

After we repaired the rest, we forged on.  Here is the photographic evidence of forging.

This is how we went about putting the hole in the board.

Looks pretty good after we sanded it down and made sure it was perfectly flush and smooth.  The gap where the fin inserts will be filled with clay so we can fiberglass over it.  and then cut it out at the end.

Holy Sally Sandbags! I still think Sally would be a great name for her.  It reminds me of the character from the Nightmare before Christmas since now she’s all stitched and patched together.   The Deck is installed and the board is in one good lookin’ piece.  She’s a 6 with good personality.

Repairs are coming along.  After a few emails between us and CLS Boats we came up with  a plan.  The plan was to create butt joints along the side walls, repair the sheer clamps and reinforce within using scraps.  The tricky part was re-leveling everything.  There are some rougher looking spots.  Not to mention where I scuffed right through the first layer with a sander.  It gives her some character.  She could be on Maury.

 

So onto describing photos!  Side walls had to be removed with a multi-max tool which was perfect.  Sliced flush along the seam with no issues.  If you don’t have this tool-get one.  Very handy.  Damaged walls were removed and new ones cut to fit and butt joint in.  Used many many clamps to re install.  After a second application of peanut butter fill-it-ing mush it was ready for epoxy and another go at gluing the deck on.  This time we placed it on the ground.  Used pieces of wood and bags of sand to glue the top down.  It worked like a charm.

I’d like to begin by thanking everyone for the great support offered in this time of despair.  Last week, October 12, 2011 around 3:30pm central standard time we lost the paddle board.

It’s been very blurry and hard to comprehend all of this.  As time goes on, I know we will begin to find ways to feel normal again.  Until then we are very appreciative of everyone’s support and kind words.

 

OK.  Enough of that.

DO NOT USE PLASTIC SAW HORSES!!

 We had just ordered the 12’6″ Kaholo kit over the phone after working in the morning.  Then we decided it was time to glue the deck to the  rest of the frame.  I mixed up the epoxy and thickened it up.  We got every touching surface touched up with the goo and set the deck on.

We taped  around the entire frame and put weighted the top.  Then I left because I needed to go to work.  I hadn’t even made it out of the subdivision when I got the call from Marc.

The sawhorse had shattered, the nose went down and broke the sidewalls and sheer clamps in half.  Sick joke right?

Unfortunately it wasn’t a joke.  This is the aftermath.

The next day we contacted CLC and they gave us some options: scarf joint, new side walls, or a lot of epoxy.

We have not yet figured out how we will remedy the problem.  Marc is certain he wants to not see the damage on the completed build.  I suspect we will remove side walls and replace them.

Soon we’ll be ordering up the 12’6″ kit.  I am excited and can’t sleep, so I’ve decided to catch up with the blog.

Last I left, we had taken to the fates and cut a rectangle into the perfectly good board and epoxied the frame for the fin box.  While we inspected the fins supplied in the kit we noticed they have quite the fiberglass edges on them.  Somehow Marc knew fiberglass rope existed and recommended we try using it to reinforce the nose of the board. This step is not included in the manual and so we winged it.

The rope was ordered from e-bay and we attached it with epoxy last night.  First off, it reminds me of embroidery thread.  It’s made to be peeled apart to the thickness desired. It was taped in place and then we put some epoxy over it.  The next morning Marc mixed up a batch of epoxy thickened with cell-o-fill (silica thickening sent with the kit) and applied it.  By evening it was ready for sanding and a little shaping since he was looking for a sharp edge.

Why go through extra trouble with this step? We figured it would help reinforce and protect the front edge of board when crashing into rocks and getting out and onto shore.  If it doesn’t really pay off, it’s not the end of the world.  Fiber glass rope is inexpensive.

First photo is actually a photo of the tools we made for spreading peanut butter.  We think they worked wonderfully.  Also visible is the boards emily-incuded-owwie.

This is where we make it more complicated.  Marc ordered a fin box.

If you are not familiar with a fin box here is the jist.  It’s a plastic piece that you can install  allowing removable/adjustable fins on your board.  Why?  If you think you may share the board with others it’s helpful to make sure the fin(s) are in the water or else the board has no tracking and will be a pain in the butt to try to steer.  The kit comes with two fins you can permanently fiberglass on.  Marc is going to install the two, but also a single fin box in the center between the two to add an adjustable fin.  You can both buy and make fins yourself.  Installing the fin box gives the user the ability to move them forward or back depending on what feels comfortable.  I want one in my kit also.

It has not been installed yet because it is scary to take a perfectly great build so far and cut a rectangle in the bottom.

Until now!

It was kind of scary, luckily Christy was there to supervise.  Marc measured out the center of the kit between the tail and last bulk head.  Then cut two wooden “frames” to sandwich around a piece of foam board cut to size.  After marking out the placement with tape and double checking it’s location several times it was time to cut.  To get the jig saw in  a hole was drilled .  It was some scary stuff kids. I will upload the scary and boring videos (as determined by Christy)at a later time.  Until then we have photos to share. Big suprise there.

 

 

 

The epoxy that comes with the kit is odorless.  It’s nice to work with since it gets used a lot in the build.  We painted up the insides with epoxy.  The manual says to get the cheap bristle ones with wood handles.  We figured out why  you should not use the foam brushes.  After a while the foam deteriorates and begins leaving little pieces of itself in your nice epoxy job.  We added the extra pieces from the sheer clamps on for the handles to be anchored into as well as the stringers.

Once you get the epoxy on the wood it looks really nice, you begin to  see the great color in the wood.  Of course you could wipe denatured alcohol over everything if your in a big hurry.

I really love this kit.  I think it would make a great family-bonding project.  It’s really that simple.  As much as I want it to look and seem complicated to make myself look like a genius;  It’s just not.  It’s simple.  You can make it more complicated, and don’t worry, we will.

Hint: epoxy up the nose block now.  It will be glued in and is a total B to paint the underside with epoxy in that space with the first bulkhead in the way.

 

Don’t mind the blue tape on the top.  I’ll explain that soon enough.  But as you can see, it’s a tight fit.  Luckily I have small hands and was able to get in the space with a small brush.  Hopefully I coated everything.  I guess we find out when it sinks.

The paddleboard has an owwie.  The owwie is entirely my fault too.  I’m expecting Marc’s revenge to be pretty sweet.  In the mean time I will just keep peeking around corners.  While I was off doing the retail thing Marc used the peanutbutter (epoxy + wood flour) to fill the holes left behind from the copper wire holes.  The excess needed to be sanded off.  For that we apparently needed a new sander.  We hop into the car and head to Sears.  There we picked out a yellow one (details escape me, photo below), and some extra sand paper.

Back at SUP Headquarters (aka Marc’s garage)  I was sanding on the front underside. The sander was at two low of an angle, where I couldn’t tell I was even sanding and it went right through the first ply of the wood.  Which left a pretty sweet bullseye effect.  Not good.  PeanutButtered it up before getting a photo though unfortunately.

Be careful when sanding!! The ply is very thin, and along edges the middle-sandwichy-piece is darker and the grain is going in the opposite direction.  Practice on some scrap first if you are not sure.  It is bound to happen in some places no matter what you do I think though.  Edges that need to be rounded off a bit will have a little show.  Onto the photos!

This jerk got me into trouble.

  Well.  One photo.  I’m sure there may be more later added.

Marc’s board has a gender.  As the title suggests it’s a girl/busty babe.  So far she has no name.  I threw out a few suggestions, all quickly shot down.  Marc removed the copper stitches from the board while I was at work (big surprise).

When I was able to go over we mixed up some creamy peanutbutteresque wood flour and epoxy and began filleting.  Filleting.  It’s as awkward to say as it is to read.  Fill-it-ing.

Fill-it-ing.  Ugh.  At least we’re pretty decent at it.  We had to go back and make sure the little holes in the base of the bulk heads were clear (we think for water passage?) We had a good system of one person mixing, and one person juicin’ up joints.  We used a solo cup and a plastic knife to mix batches.